Corsa-B.uk - Vauxhall, Opel and Holden Corsa B Owners Club

its not a huge gain mate but gettin rid of the egr valve and blanking it off does give better smoother response and it gives ya a bit more economy apparently hope this helps

How do I go about removing the EGR from the ECU as I can imagine the EML will be on constantly due to blanking it off.

it depends if you have 2 or 3 wires only way to check would be unplug it and start the car if you have 2 wires cut the plug off and join them together to finish the circuit

Right, a mate of mine said his dad is a mechanic so I asked if he could come round to have a look at my car. Was really helpful, changed my CV Joints for only £50 both sides. He also did a FREE diagnostic on my car opposed to the £70 the local garage was going to charge. Said the fault code was P1510 which I believe to be the throttle position sensor. I have come to this conclusion as whenever I'm driving and the EML comes on, I take my foot off the accelerator pedal and it disappears after two seconds.

Hopefully this will fix it, took the car down the motorway today and the light came on but no effect of performance and the same happened with the EML and taking my foot off the accelerator pedal. Can I drive the car like this for a couple more days until the part can be fitted?

Right, I replaced the Throttle position sensor which I was told would solve this problem, low and behold, it doesn't. I took off the throttle body and replaced the TPS and also reset the ICV whilst I was at it. But it's still producing the same problem, whether or not i'm doing something wrong, I do not know. Please can someone help me with this? Need the car working properly.

Thanks.

DoDaniel wrote:Right, I replaced the Throttle position sensor which I was told would solve this problem, low and behold, it doesn't. I took off the throttle body and replaced the TPS and also reset the ICV whilst I was at it. But it's still producing the same problem, whether or not i'm doing something wrong, I do not know. Please can someone help me with this? Need the car working properly.

Thanks.

I think im also having this problem too at the moment,

apperentley my mechanic replaced what he said was a dead Airflow meter filament at about £70
but my cars jumping about bad when trying to drive.
my ICU could be broken
and signs also pointed to EGR. i replaced EGR a few times and still not right.

its with the mechanic at the moment. should hopfully figure out what the problem is at end of the week.

Also note ive done full service, fresh oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs.

I had the jumping on my car aswell, that's what started this whole thing off. Replace the Lamda sensor and the Mass air flow sensor and got rid of the problem. However, the EML still kept coming on, got a mates dad to do a diagnostic and was told it was the Throttle Position Sensor replaced that. But it's still showing up.

This problem is getting me down, it's so hard to pinpoint ! Gona be out a fortune replacing all the sensors then hard to tell what really needed replaced, agh so frustrating.

The problem has now worsened and I can't even use the car now. I would be driving and then go to put my foot down on the accelerator and nothing. It's as if there is nothing there, it only happens intermittently so I can imagine it being something like the ICV as when i opened it up the copper connectors that sit inside the cog had been bent. This may be causing them to lose a connection as when it happens the car also goes into a high idle and says there until the accelerator is pushed down again.

Need to get this fixed asap as the car is needed badly, I can only use my mums car for so long (It's a Peugoet ¬_¬).

DoDaniel wrote:The problem has now worsened and I can't even use the car now. I would be driving and then go to put my foot down on the accelerator and nothing. It's as if there is nothing there, it only happens intermittently so I can imagine it being something like the ICV as when i opened it up the copper connectors that sit inside the cog had been bent. This may be causing them to lose a connection as when it happens the car also goes into a high idle and says there until the accelerator is pushed down again.

Need to get this fixed asap as the car is needed badly, I can only use my mums car for so long (It's a Peugoet ¬_¬).

Im the same i cant drive my car either, Engine starts fine and idles alright. When i try to take off and drive it tho i cant because it jumps about really bad as if its not geting enough fuel etc.

I might regret opening up the ICU to inspect it. I also put a drop of oil on the cogs thinking it might help them move free etc but this may have caused it to burn out. My cars been with the mechanic for over a week now, i think hes beeing realy lazy and cant be arsed fixing it, its friday 2mora so im hoping it ready.

No knowing is whats killing me the most.

Ordering a diagnostics kit today from eBay, found one for £20 that seems legit and works really well. It's not sporting the Tech 2 interface the the garages use, but it's so similar the difference is unnoticeable. Hopefully, this will help me find out the exact problem and allow me to order the right part rather than hunting around and purchasing sensors willy-nilly. It should also let me erase the current data that is stored of the ICV, allowing me to do it there and then raher than disconnecting the battery and waiting for about an hour or so.

I have a choice of 2.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270826355296? ... 091wt_1270

And

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160679640380? ... 884wt_1270

Got the Diagnostic on it today, and managed to get some codes.


P0130 - O2 Sensor Open Circuit
(04) - Not present

P1510 - Idle Position Switch Open Circuit
(04) - Not present

I'm not sure as to why it's flagging up with an o2 sensor seeing as I replaced every sensor that controls oxygen going into the car. And as for the Idle position switch, I'd imagine this is about the ICV. When looking at the ICV, it pushes the throttle open a light bit and i suspect this is the problem I'm having with high idling and it 'hunting' for the correct idle point.

Also, went to start the car this morning and it made a weird noise, I immediately turned off the engine so I wouldn't do any damage but the car hasn't been started for a while (Like 5 weeks), so this may be why.